This year’s Shanghai Fashion Week showcases a notable shift in the Chinese fashion landscape, with local designers embracing global narratives amidst a changing economic backdrop. The recent collection marked a departure from previous seasons’ emphasis on traditional attire, opting instead for a “free chic” aesthetic that resonated on an international level.

Xuzhi Chen: A Designer’s Return

Among the standout designers at the event was Xuzhi Chen, who made a triumphant return after a brief hiatus, celebrating his label’s ten-year anniversary. Chen, a Central St. Martins graduate, honed his skills under renowned designers Craig Green and JW Anderson before launching his own brand in London in 2015. His work has garnered nominations for prestigious awards such as the LVMH Prize and the Woolmark Prize.

Infusing Eastern Elements into Western Style

Chen’s latest collection provided a fresh interpretation of design, merging Western influences with traditional Chinese elements. He boldly drew inspiration from iconic figures like Jane Birkin, enriching the classic European vision of “chic” with an Oriental twist.

This collection featured a blend of bohemian motifs, characterized by a loose silhouette with balloon hems, intricate embroidery, and an array of decorative stones and medals sourced from Chinese aesthetics, moving beyond typical frills.

Embracing Menswear Innovations

Chen’s collection prominently showcased menswear, an area often overshadowed in the broader narrative of fashion. His innovative take on men’s boho style, which can sometimes risk falling into clichés, was executed with elegance and confidence. Key looks included embellished jeans paired with crew neck sweaters, ultra-suede outerwear, and unexpected suit designs that challenged traditional notions of menswear.

A Nod to the Past

Reflecting on the evolution of Chinese fashion, Chen expressed a desire to reconnect with his roots, stating, “With so much of Chinese fashion has changed recently, I was thinking I’d go back to (making) my traditional fashion collections, which are very old schools.” His collection draws inspiration from the decadence of the 1920s while interweaving elements of 1970s bohemian style, steering away from mere reinterpretation of early 2000s trends.