Andrea Mary Marshall: A Royal Tribute in Fashion
Overview of ‘Elizabeth’
In Fall 2025, Andrea Mary Marshall will launch her new collection titled ‘Elizabeth,’ which is widely interpreted as a tribute to the iconic British monarch. This release builds upon her earlier spring showcase, which spotlighted emerging designers, taking a step forward into a refined exploration of heritage and elegance.
A Journey Through Art and Fashion
Marshall, an alumnus of Parsons, has developed a unique artistic practice grounded in self-portraiture while simultaneously making her mark in the fashion industry. Reflecting on her experiences, she stated, “It was a job that I didn’t have to be too attached to. I was able to check in and check out.” This dichotomy allowed her to channel personal sentiments into her art, leading to the establishment of Salon 1884 in 2021 in collaboration with Neiman Marcus. The brand is named after the infamous 1884 exhibition that showcased John Singer Sargent’s controversial painting, “Portrait of Madame X.”
Signature Style of Salon 1884
Salon 1884 offers an elegant array of tailored pieces, including exquisite black dresses and distinctive designs with a touch of kink. Marshall’s penchant for dramatic silhouettes occasionally invokes the daring aesthetics of the 1980s, yet she emphasizes that her creations are rooted in a minimalist approach. She remarked, “It’s something I wear, but it’s not something that comes out of me,” highlighting her desire to move back to the fundamentals of design and pattern-making. This pivot towards pattern design enabled Marshall to produce garments that align with her artistic vision.
Exploring Themes of Royalty and Heritage
The ‘Elizabeth’ collection encapsulates the essence of the Virgin Queen during a contemporary moment, featuring garments that employ over 30 yards of stately starched lace and corsetry. Marshall draws upon insights from Roy Strong’s writings on Queen Elizabeth I, noting that although often adorned in black, the Queen was known for her elaborate lace collars and jewelry. The collection nods to various fashion influences, including the dynamic elements of Vivienne Westwood and Zandra Rhodes.
British Influences and Modern Interpretation
The collection embodies a quintessentially British style through trench coats, brothel creepers, and punk-inspired details, while also incorporating a feminized teddybear motif that enriches the collection’s narrative. Among the standout pieces is a jacket featuring ivory satin lapels alongside unexpected lace accents. The plaid suit jacket, designed with intricately tailored seams, complements the feminine silhouettes of the dresses, crafted from custom leopard alpaca fabric, embodying a nostalgic ’90s vibe reminiscent of supermodel Kate Moss.
Artistry and the Concept of ‘Elizabeth’
Marshall’s conceptualization of Elizabeth extends beyond mere clothing. “I was drawing these pictures of Elizabeth, so I wanted her to have the quality of this animal because she was half god and half Elizabeth,” she explained. This artistic vision aims to present Elizabeth as an exaggerated, larger-than-life figure, potentially resonating with audiences ready to dive into the intricacies of modern fashion intertwined with historical reverence.